Two phrases I have mentioned before, “eating the elephant” and “coastal hopping” have raised their cheery heads again. Sailing around the southern coast of South Africa, Cape Agulhas and Cape of Good Hope, also known as the "Cape of Storms", is mostly done in small bites, involving at least 6 or 7 stopovers along the way. Perhaps one is never done with these.
From Richards Bay to Cape Town is over 1000 nautical miles and the timing for each bite is entirely determined by the weather. At least once or twice a week the strong SW’erlies blow, which is not a good time to be out there. The wonderfully helpful Agulhas current runs southwesterly at up to 6 knots, but whenever it meets one of these opposing winds, waves can build up to 20 m high, terrifyingly described as being able to snap the back of massive tankers in half.
Weather watching takes on a whole new meaning. Enter the wonderful ex cruiser, Des Casons, who provides his weather services free - this year, to 64 of his “chicks”. His response to my enquiry was, “it would be unconscionable to abandon the last of my “chicks” as the rest with two exceptions are all safe in Cape Town, and some already over the pond in S America.”
The two tail runners, Shanti and Argonauta have the advantage of Des’ undivided attention, as well as less crowded marinas. It’s good to be sailing in company with one other boat, even though at 44’ she is much faster than Shanti. An interesting couple, she Canadian and he Italian, though I have to confess to understanding barely half of what he says. Still, it’s good to share the bureaucratic nonsense that must be gone through at each port with reams of documentation describing some oft repeated “flight plan”. At least it’s all free, apart from shoe leather and time, which is not in short supply.
Several of the earlier fleet had to bypass Durban after it was closed due to storm damage. That made their first bite a big one, 360nm from Richards Bay to East London. So I was glad to make my first overnighter only 90 miles. It was a boisterous sail with winds up to 30 knots and lumpy seas, and I was pleased to keep my insides in.
There was still evidence of the damage to the floating pontoons in Durban Marina, as well as no power or water. Not a bother at all; I was just glad to find shelter and rest.
It’s little wonder these marinas fall apart so easily. They might just as well be held together with string and chewing gum, the way they are anchored with rusty chains to the seabed. When the wind blows hard, it’s a symphony in motion, with moored boats and pontoons swaying together.
Some boats have had to wait several weeks for the next suitable weather window, so we were glad to be given the thumbs up by Des in only 3 days. Gave us just enough time to do all we had to do and to meet up with the "saint" himself for beer and brunch. I had 2 new batteries “home delivered” to the boat which was an amazing service.
After running around to all the usual rubber-stampers - Marina office, Ports, Immigration, Customs, then back to Ports and to the Marina office (anyone would think we were leaving the country), we were ready to cast off by 1100. The next hop to East London is 260 nm, which takes about 46 hours, with speeds up to 9 kts in the current. There was very little wind so lots of diesel burning for the first 24 hours, but a nasty washing machine sea with waves coming from all directions.
There were a few dramas en route. Argonauta’s engine overheated a couple of times, she blew a water cooling hose, and had some other weird “explosion” in the engine room that blackened the ceiling. Luckily for them, the wind arrived in time for them to sail. (they are, after all, a yacht.)
It was the opposite on Shanti. I got all excited about having 4 batteries to play with, so ran my fridge and everything else all night, completely forgetting that the alternator still doesn’t charge 4 batteries any better than it doesn’t charge 2. (Must get that fixed in Cape Town).
When a usable wind finally kicked in at 2300, I turned off the engine. Horror of horrors, all my power went off. No lights, no autopilot, nothing! I ended up having to idle the engine the rest of the way. (I am yacht after all, but that engine has uses other than propulsion.)
We both arrived at 0630, only to be told we had to stand off and wait 3 hours for shipping. Aaaahhh! The wind was forecast to come in strongly at 0900 and already the sea and current were messing us about. Argonauta was told to drop their anchor (in 46 metres, hmmm, not long before that was dragging) and Shanti was running out of fuel. What a fiasco.
Eventually they took pity on us. A disabled tanker was asked to anchor off, two tug boats towed Argonauta in, and Shanti just made it in under her own steam.
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| These bulk car carriers look more like Lego blocks than ships. |
We are both now anchored in the sheltered Buffalo river, East London, wondering if we should bother putting our dinghies in. Apparently the yacht club is closed and town is an hour's uphill walk away. Might just stay and do boat jobs.. got enough of everything for a few more days. And it's not unpleasant sitting on anchor.
Looks like a good weather window for the next overnighter to Port Elizabeth (145 miles) coming up on Saturday, before it turns to custard on Sunday. Fingers crossed ....
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| Stunning sunrise in the warm Indian Ocean. You can just make out "Argonauta" in the distance. |
